35+ Front garden ideas for Australian homes: smart, low-maintenance ways to add style and street appeal
Good front garden ideas do more than lift kerb appeal. They shape the way you arrive home, frame the architecture and soften hard edges at the front of the house. The trick is not to treat the front yard as leftover space.
The strongest front yard garden ideas usually come from a few practical decisions made early: where people walk, what needs screening, how much sun and wind the space gets, and how much maintenance you will realistically tolerate in February.
For Australian homes, that usually means choosing ideas that can handle bright light, sudden downpours, heat, coastal air in some areas, and busy households that want a garden to look good without constant fuss.
A good front garden should feel like a natural extension of the home, not a separate styling exercise. Sustainable Australian guidance also points to native planting, reduced hard surfaces where possible, and landscaping that supports runoff control, shade and biodiversity — ideas that align closely with biophilic design.
What this guide covers
This guide covers low-maintenance, small-space, lawn-free, lawn-led, budget-conscious and front-fence ideas for Australian homes, with practical advice on layout, planting, materials, costs and compliance checks.
Key takeaways
- The best front garden ideas start with function: a clear arrival path, the right level of privacy, and a layout that suits your climate, frontage and day-to-day life.
- For most Australian homes, the strongest results come from simple structure — climate-suited planting, fewer materials, reduced lawn where it makes sense, and one or two well-resolved focal moves instead of many competing features.
- Small front gardens benefit from a simpler layout, while no-grass designs, budget-friendly updates and front fences work best when they improve something specific — less upkeep, better privacy or a clearer, more attractive frontage.
- Front garden costs can range from a modest refresh to a larger redesign, but layout, drainage, paving, fencing and site conditions usually affect budget more than plants alone.
- Before committing to fences, paving or outdoor fixtures, check local council rules, drainage and product suitability.
If you only read one thing…
Choose your front garden by the problem you most want to solve.
- Want less work? Go towards gravel, mulch, layered natives and reduced lawn.
- Need more privacy? Start with planting and a lighter-looking front fence before reaching for a tall solid wall.
- Working with a tiny frontage? Keep the palette tight and repeat materials.
- Love a lush look? Use lawn or soft groundcovers as negative space, not as the default whole-yard answer.
What should your front garden do for you?
Before choosing plants, pavers or a fence style, decide what the front garden actually needs to do. For most homes, the brief is a mix of arrival, privacy, visibility, drainage, bin storage, parking edges and day-to-day ease.
A good front garden usually solves at least three things at once. It should guide people clearly to the door, feel proportionate to the house, and stay presentable without becoming a weekend burden.
For a compact terrace, that may mean using every centimetre carefully.
For a suburban family home, it may mean balancing lawn, bikes, bins and a safe path for kids.
For a coastal build, it may mean choosing materials and fittings that feel calm and robust rather than precious.
At a glance: Front garden planning checklist
Use this before you sketch anything or ask for quotes:
- Stand at the street and identify the first thing your eye lands on.
- Mark the walking line from gate, crossover or footpath to the front door.
- Note where summer sun hits hardest and where winter light is worth keeping.
- Check where water already runs in heavy rain.
- Decide whether privacy should come from planting, fencing or both.
- Choose one dominant material and one support material, not four.
- Decide whether you want lawn, groundcover or no grass at all.
- Confirm local rules before committing to fence height, retaining walls or work near services — and check with your landscaper, builder or certifier before you pave, step or ramp near the house.
38 Front garden ideas that work in real Australian homes
As mentioned, the right approach depends on what your frontage needs most — less upkeep, better privacy, more softness, or a clearer sense of arrival. The sections below break down the main design directions, so it’s easier to see which one fits your home best.
6 Low-maintenance front garden ideas that still feel layered
The best low-maintenance front garden usually relies on a simple structure: a clear path, a restrained planting palette, and one or two strong moves that give the frontage shape. That might be a feature tree, a gravel court, a raised bed, a neatly edged border or a single sculptural pot near the entry.
The point is not to fill every corner. It is to make fewer elements work harder, so the garden stays easy to maintain and gives the house a cleaner, more organised frontage.
For Australian homes, that often means choosing plants and materials that can handle heat, bright light, sudden rain and long dry spells without looking stressed or messy.
In WA, Water Corporation’s waterwise guidance recommends “hydrozoning” — grouping plants with similar watering needs — which simplifies irrigation and helps the garden perform more consistently over time. If you’re trying to reduce water use across the whole home (not just the garden), see our ways to save water guide.
🔹Expert tip: Repeat plant shapes before adding more colour. A tighter mix of forms usually makes the frontage look more organised and less visually busy.
1 Start with a waterwise planting backbone
The easiest way to lower maintenance is to choose plants that already suit the site. Use hardy, climate-suited varieties as the backbone of the garden, then layer in smaller moments of colour rather than relying on constant flowering to do all the work.
Think dependable foliage first: kangaroo paw, westringia, lomandra, grevillea, dianella or banksia in the right setting. These plants help a front garden hold its shape through heat, wind and ordinary neglect, especially when they are mulched well and grouped by watering needs.
2 Reduce lawn without losing softness
A lower-maintenance front garden does not have to feel hard or bare. Keep grass only where it softens the frontage or balances the layout, then replace leftover strips with mulch, gravel or groundcover.
That usually gives you the green relief lawn provides without letting it become the most demanding part of the garden.
Groundcovers such as dichondra, native violet or creeping boobialla can also soften the space without the mowing burden.
3 Use height to make the garden feel fuller, not fussier
Layering is what stops a low-maintenance garden from feeling flat. In most front yards, that simply means one low layer, one middle layer and one taller element to pull the eye upward.
Use gravel or groundcovers at the base, shrubs or grasses through the middle, then add a small tree, espalier, climber or plant wall / wall planter for height. That gives the frontage more depth and fullness without making it feel crowded.
4 Let paving do the structural work
Paving should organise the space, not dominate it. A clean path, bluestone steppers through gravel,, or a small paved threshold near the entry usually works better than covering the whole frontage in paving.
Use paving where it improves access and helps define the layout, then let planting soften the edges. That usually gives the frontage clearer structure without making it feel bare, harsh or overdesigned.
5 Lean into sculptural, dry-climate planting where it suits the house
Some of the easiest front gardens to maintain are the ones that embrace a drier, more architectural look.
Succulents and other architectural, dry-climate plants — aloes, strappy grasses and (where permitted) agaves — can create strong visual impact with very little upkeep when they suit the home and climate.
This approach works especially well with modern homes, narrow frontages and sunny, exposed sites. Use a limited plant palette and repeat the same sculptural forms so the frontage looks clean and controlled, not busy.
🔹Note: Because “tough” plants can still be problem plants, it’s worth a quick check of your local council or state weed list before you commit.
6 Add one quiet focal feature
Even a low-maintenance front garden needs one place for the eye to land. Without that, the space can feel purely practical.
A specimen pot, a neat bench, a bird bath, a reflective bowl or one well-placed small tree is often enough. If you want to introduce water, keep it compact and easy to manage, and make sure any electrical or plumbed element is suitable for the application and installed appropriately.
6 Small front garden ideas that make tight entries feel generous
The goal in a small front garden is not to fit in more, but to make the frontage easier to read and nicer to move through. A clear path, a tight material palette and a little vertical planting usually do more than adding extra features.
1 Keep the path obvious
A small front garden needs one clear route to the door. Avoid chopping the frontage into too many little zones. One clean path, with planting or gravel kept to the sides, usually looks neater and works better day to day.
2 Use height, not clutter
When space is tight, go upward. Climbers, espaliers, trellises and wall planters add fullness without taking over the ground plane.
3 Repeat plants and materials
Small spaces look bigger when fewer things are happening. Repeat two or three plant forms and keep the material palette tight. For example, use one paving type, one edging finish and one main planting rhythm. If you’re unsure how to keep the front of house and garden looking cohesive, start by choosing a colour palette for the overall exterior feel.
4 Choose features that earn their place
In a small front garden, every element should do something useful. A bench can add storage. A raised edge can double as seating. A gate can become a design feature. The more jobs one element can do, the less crowded the space will feel.
5 Use lighting to add depth
Lighting can make the frontage feel larger by pulling the eye through the space. Keep it simple: light the path, the entry and one feature plant or wall. That is usually enough.
6 Add one focal point
A small frontage still needs one clear visual anchor. Without it, the space can feel flat. With too many, it feels cluttered. A sculptural pot, clipped shrub, slim bench or well-framed front door can be enough on its own. Pick one strong move, then let the rest stay quiet.
If the frontage is barely more than a strip, treat it like a threshold: one narrow bed, one material, and one strong door moment. A clipped hedge line, a wall planter, or a slim gravel run with steppers can do the job — then, if privacy matters, add a low fence softened by planting behind it rather than a solid wall hard on the street edge.
6 Front garden ideas with no grass
A no-grass front garden makes sense when lawn is hard to maintain, awkward to irrigate or simply not improving the frontage. The best versions replace turf with a clear walking line, a restrained mix of surfaces and enough planting to keep the space soft from the street.
1 Use gravel to simplify the layout
Gravel works best as a backdrop, not the whole garden. Use it to frame paths, fill open areas or connect planted zones, then break it up with steppers, shrubs or pots. Keep the colour palette tight and the edging crisp.
2 Keep enough planting to soften the space
A no-grass front garden still needs softness. Without planting, gravel and paving can feel hard, hot and visually flat. Use low groundcovers, strappy grasses, compact shrubs and one or two taller forms to add movement and shade.
3 Choose permeable surfaces where you can
A grass-free front garden does not need to be fully paved. Gravel, steppers and permeable paving can still give you access without turning the whole frontage into solid surface. They work especially well for paths, side strips and small forecourt areas. Just make sure the drainage and paving falls are properly worked out for your site.
4 Make mulch look intentional
Mulch is not just filler. It can unify beds, hold moisture and make planting look neater with very little effort. Use a chunkier mulch and define the bed edges clearly.
5 Add one usable hard surface
Sometimes the best replacement for lawn is a small paved or decked area near the entry. It can make the front of the house easier to reach and give the frontage a clearer layout. Keep it compact, then use planting around the edges so it still reads as part of the garden rather than extra hard surface.
6 Keep one generous green moment
Even in a no-grass garden, the eye still wants somewhere to rest. A clipped shrub, massed groundcover, dense planted edge or small tree can give the frontage that sense of relief. One strong green gesture usually works better than lots of scattered plants.
6 Front lawn garden ideas: when some grass still earns its place
A front lawn still earns its place when it frames the path, softens the façade or gives the planting room to breathe. The key is to use grass deliberately, not as leftover filler across the whole front yard.
The strongest front lawn ideas keep turf to one clear, well-shaped area rather than spreading it across the whole frontage. In most homes, lawn works best when it supports the path, planting and façade without creating awkward strips that are hard to mow and water properly.
If grass is staying, this is how to stop it feeling like filler:
1 Keep it to one clear area. Lawn usually works best as a single, well-shaped panel rather than a broad spread of turf broken up by beds and paths.
2 Use it to support the layout. Grass should help set off the path, planting and façade, not try to fill every part of the frontage.
3 Shape it so it is easy to maintain. Clean rectangles, generous curves and one obvious lawn zone are easier to mow, water and edge properly.
4 Cut the awkward bits. Narrow strips beside paths, fences or driveways are hard to mow and irrigate evenly, and they often make the garden look pieced together.
5 Border it properly. Lawn looks stronger when it meets clipped hedges, deeper garden beds, strappy planting or one clear edge that gives it structure.
6 Only keep it where it will grow well. If part of the frontage is too shaded, poorly drained or exposed to reflected heat, reduce the turf there and switch to planting, mulch or gravel instead.
A good front lawn should feel like part of a larger composition, not the whole idea. When it is used with restraint, it can soften the frontage beautifully without becoming the most demanding part of the garden.
7 Front garden ideas on a budget
A budget front garden usually works best when the money goes into the basics first. In most homes, that means getting the path, edging, soil and planting layout right before spending on extras.
If you are working to a tighter budget, focus on the moves that usually make the biggest visual difference:
1 Fix the path first. A clear route to the door gives the frontage structure straight away.
2 Improve the soil before adding more plants. Better soil usually gives you fuller growth from a smaller plant budget.
3 Limit the materials. Choose one or two surfaces and repeat them consistently rather than mixing several finishes.
4 Buy smaller plants and group them properly. Younger plants cost less and usually look stronger once they grow together in repeated clusters.
5 Keep any lawn only where it earns its place. Remove narrow strips and awkward corners that add mowing and watering without improving the layout.
6 Reuse sound existing elements. Existing bricks, stone, edging or a healthy small tree can reduce cost and help the garden feel established.
7 Stage non-essential extras. Get the path, soil, edging and planting right first, then add lighting, pots or feature details later.
What goes wrong when people chase the cheapest quote?
Cheap front gardens usually come unstuck in the parts you notice later: poor soil preparation, weak edging, drainage problems and rushed installation. Those shortcuts can make even a simple layout look patchy, tired or poorly built within a short time.
If the budget is tight, reduce the scope before you reduce the quality of the basics. It is better to do fewer things properly than to stretch the budget across path work, planting, edging and lighting that all end up compromised. Where electrical or irrigation work is involved, use licensed trades.
7 Front garden fence ideas that add privacy without making the house feel shut off
A front fence should define the boundary and give some privacy without making the frontage feel defensive. Problems usually start when the fence is too tall, too solid or trying to do all the privacy work on its own.
In most homes, the strongest result comes from combining fence height, planting and a clear gate-path connection rather than relying on one heavy front barrier.
Fence ideas for front garden spaces that usually work best
1 Use a lower fence when the house already has enough presence. If the façade, steps or garden bed already give the frontage shape, a low picket, slat or simple metal fence is often enough to mark the boundary.
2 Use vertical battens when you want privacy without blocking light. They screen the frontage while still allowing glimpses through, which stops the house feeling closed off.
3 Use a solid base with a lighter upper section when the frontage needs more weight. A masonry plinth with slats or open metalwork above often looks more balanced than a full-height solid wall.
4 Let planting share the privacy job. A hedge or layered planting behind a lower fence usually looks softer and more residential than adding more fence height.
5 Match the fence to the scale of the house. Lighter homes usually suit lighter fencing, while more substantial homes can carry rendered bases, masonry or darker metal more comfortably.
6 Keep the gate and path obvious. If people cannot read the entry clearly from the street, the whole frontage can start to feel closed off.
7 Keep the fence language simple. Too many materials, colours or decorative inserts usually make the boundary look busy rather than resolved.
A front fence usually looks strongest when the height suits the house, the material suits the architecture and the planting helps soften the boundary.
🔹Compliance check: Before building a front fence, confirm local rules on height, materials, heritage controls and corner-lot sightlines. In NSW, for example, exempt-development fences along a primary or secondary road generally must not exceed 1.2 m, and along a secondary road must be at least 20% transparent above 400 mm. This is general information, not legal advice.
How to choose plants and materials that still look good in five years
Front gardens age well when plant choices match the climate and the materials suit the conditions. Heat, glare, leaf litter, coastal air and sudden rain all affect how paving, edging, planting and finishes perform, so choose for exposure, wear and maintenance before trend.
In most homes, that means fewer unnecessary hard surfaces, simpler materials and planting that can soften the edges as it fills out.
Designer’s rules:
- Repeat plant forms before adding more colour.
- Let one material lead and one material support.
- Use lighter paving carefully in full sun, where glare can become a problem.
- Use mulch and groundcover to soften bed edges and reduce exposed bare soil.
- In bushfire-prone areas, check guidance from your state fire authority and local approval pathway before finalising planting near the house.
Start with Your Home , then check guidance from your state fire authority (for example DFES in WA): the recurring themes are lower-flammability choices, sensible spacing, and keeping vulnerable zones near the house clear — but the right approach depends on your site and approval context.
🔹Pro tip: Front gardens usually look more expensive when the materials are limited and repeated well. One paving type, one edging finish, and a smaller number of plant shapes will usually look stronger than a mix of competing textures.
Summary: what can make a front garden design go wrong?
- Too many materials competing at once.
- A path that feels like an afterthought.
- Tiny leftover lawn strips.
- A fence that is too heavy for the facade.
- Planting chosen for colour only, not climate or maintenance.
- Feature lighting without a strong daytime composition.
- Outdoor fittings selected last, with no finish relationship to the house (use this guide to tapware finishes to choose something that suits your exterior materials).
Most front gardens do not go wrong because of one bad plant choice. They go wrong when the path, planting and materials do not work together. A front garden usually looks stronger when the layout is clear, the materials are consistent and no single feature is trying to do all the work.
Which front garden style suits your home best?
Choose the style that already suits your facade, roofline, setback and materials. If the architecture is quiet and modern, the garden should not suddenly become cottage-maximalist. If the home is traditional, an ultra-hard minimal scheme can feel disconnected unless it is handled very carefully. Deciding between a pared-back scheme and a more layered, lush frontage? Our minimalism vs maximalism guide will help you choose a direction (and get it right).
Use the table below to compare common front garden styles, what they suit best, and the kind of planting that helps each one work.
Style | Best for | Plant direction | Nero Pairing |
Modern minimalist | Homes with clean lines, restrained facades and a simpler material palette. Works well when you want the front garden to feel crisp, structured and low-fuss. | Grasses, succulents and architectural shapes — think lomandra, dianella and grass trees (Xanthorrhoea spp.) for a native backbone. If you are keeping a lawn panel, warm-season turf such as zoysia can suit a crisp minimalist look. | Gun Metal, Graphite, Matte Black or Brushed Nickel. Best fits: Mecca for sleek lines and modern simplicity, Zen for a cleaner architectural look in 316L stainless steel, Pure for a more minimal understated profile, and Celia for practical clean-lined spaces. |
Native Australian garden | Homes that suit a softer, more natural frontage with lower water use, stronger biodiversity and a more local landscape character. | Eucalyptus, wattles, banksias, grevilleas, lomandra and dianella. In coastal settings, Banksia integrifolia is a strong option. | Brushed Nickel, Graphite or Gun Metal. Best fits: Pure and Zen for quieter, understated forms that sit back against native planting, with Mecca also working where the architecture is cleaner and more contemporary. |
Hamptons coastal style | Weatherboard homes, lighter facades and frontages that suit a softer, more decorative look with a relaxed coastal feel. | Hydrangeas, roses and lavender can work well in cooler or milder climates. In warmer or more exposed coastal areas, swap in tougher plants such as coastal rosemary (Westringia), Banksia integrifolia and clipped evergreen shrubs rather than relying on hydrangeas or bougainvillea. | Chrome or Brushed Nickel first; Brushed Gold can work as a warmer accent in the right scheme. Best fits: Bianca — which Nero specifically pairs with brushed gold or nickel in Hamptons-style spaces — plus York for a more classic feel, Classic for a simpler timeless option, and Serenity where the look is softer and more refined. |
Formal traditional garden | Classic homes that suit symmetry, structure and a more polished front boundary treatment. | Box hedging, camellias, roses, ornamental pears and shaped topiary. | Chrome as the safest default; Aged Brass if the home has warmer heritage detailing. Best fits: Classic for timeless everyday design, York for a more vintage-inspired traditional look, and Serenity where you want something more elegant but still restrained. |
Cottage or Mediterranean | Homes that can carry a looser, more layered planting style with fragrance, texture and a more relaxed streetscape presence. | Lavender, rosemary, climbing roses, citrus trees, olives and herbs. In humid climates, be more selective with lavender and favour tougher heat- and humidity-tolerant substitutes where needed. | Brushed Bronze or Aged Brass; Brushed Gold can also work in lighter, sunnier schemes. Best fits: York for character and a more classic silhouette, Serenity for calmer refined detailing, and Opal where a faceted or knurled texture suits a more layered, decorative palette. |
Climate note: Plant suitability varies more by climate and exposure than by style label. A palette that works in coastal Victoria will not always suit subtropical Queensland or an exposed inland site. Hydrangeas generally suit cooler to mild conditions, while bougainvillea suits warmer climates.
Australian-first note: Where possible, favour plants that suit your local soil, sun, wind and water conditions first, then shape the look through layout, repetition and material choice. That approach is more reliable than forcing a style palette that does not suit the site. Australian guidance also supports minimising unnecessary hard surfaces and using landscaping as part of the home’s broader environmental performance.
If you’re still defining what your home ‘reads as’ from the street, these house facade ideas can help you identify the right direction before you design the garden.
How much does front garden landscaping cost in Australia?
As a rough planning guide, Australian front-yard landscaping costscan range from a high four-figure refresh to a $30,000+ rebuild once paving, retaining, lighting, drainage and irrigation are involved. Quotes vary sharply because “front garden landscaping” can mean anything from planting and mulch through to excavation, base prep, new paths and boundary works.
A quick budgeting reality check: cost tiers and typical inclusions
Use the table below as a rough budgeting framework only. It isn’t a quoting tool, and it works best when you already know whether you’re aiming for a light refresh, a fuller redesign, or a more architectural front-garden build.
Budget tier (AUD) | Typical inclusions |
$5k–$15k | Mostly soft landscaping: mulch/gravel, soil improvement, repeated planting groups, small lawn/groundcover patch, simple steppers, a tidier letterbox/threshold moment. |
$15k–$35k | Layout + hardscaping: clearer layout, new or upgraded path/paving, stronger edging, small retaining/raised beds, irrigation, entry lighting. |
$35k–$75k+ | Structural/site work: retaining and level changes, extensive paving, drainage fixes, mature trees, custom fences/walls, professionally planned lighting and complex site/drainage work. |
What usually drives the number (fast):
- Paving and paths: usually priced per m², and a “simple” path can escalate quickly once excavation, base prep and access are factored in. Many Australian guides quote roughly $40–$100 per m² for straightforward paving (materials + labour), with premium materials/complex installs higher.
- Retaining and level changes: one of the fastest budget escalators. Installed retaining is commonly quoted around $250–$700 per m² depending on material and site requirements (and engineering can add more).
- Outdoor lighting: the fitting is rarely the whole story — cabling, trenching, switching and electrician time add up. Cost guides commonly note an $80–$130 service fee and $80–$100 per hour labour.
- Irrigation: can be quoted by area or as a lump sum; guides often cite around $10–$27 per m² installed, but note exclusions like pumps, power connections and authority/tapping fees.
🔹Expert tip: On a front garden, visible mistakes are expensive. Spend early on layout, levels and drainage, then on the finish layer. Planting is easier to tweak later than bad paving or a badly placed fence.
Practical checks before you build, pave or plumb anything in
Before you fence or retain
Front-boundary rules vary widely, so start with your local council. If you are in NSW, the Planning Portal is a useful example of how fence height, transparency, road frontage and zoning can affect what counts as exempt development. Use that as a guide to the kind of checks you need to make, then verify the rules for your own area.
Before you pave near the house
Hard paving needs more planning than it often gets. The NCC Housing Provisions include drainage requirements for surfaces next to Class 1 buildings, including falls for certain adjacent impermeable surfaces. In practical terms, paving should not trap water or direct it back towards the house.
Before you choose outdoor taps, showers or plumbed fixtures
Use the Water Rating label to compare WELS stars and flow rates, and check whether WaterMark certification applies to the product you are considering — our guide on how to choose tapware breaks this down in plain English. For regulated plumbing products, certification and installation requirements matter just as much as finish or style.
If you’re adding an outdoor rinse zone (pool, beach, garden, or muddy-dog life), start with these outdoor shower ideas to plan layout and placement sensibly.
If you are designing for ageing in place or easier access
A front entry that works now and still works later is rarely regretted. Even where it is not mandatory, step-free thinking is worth considering early for paths, thresholds and ramps. The ABCB’s Livable Housing Design Standard is a useful reference point for that planning.
Useful Australian references before you start
These are the most useful Australian references to check before committing to a front-garden update:
- National Construction Code (ABCB) — drainage, safe movement and broader building context.
- Livable Housing Design Standard (ABCB) — accessibility and ageing-in-place considerations.
- Planning Portal: Fences (NSW Government) — a practical example of front-boundary controls.
- Water Rating label (Australian Government) — WELS stars and flow rates for taps and showers.
- WaterMark (ABCB) — whether a plumbing product is certified where required.
- Your Home: Landscaping and garden design — climate-responsive, water-aware garden design guidance.
- Waterwise plants (Water Corporation) — especially useful for WA readers choosing low-water planting.
The best front garden ideas feel right before they feel impressive
The most successful front garden schemes usually come back to the same things: a clear arrival, a calm material palette, climate-suited planting, and enough restraint for the house to breathe.
That is why the strongest ideas for a front yard garden are rarely the busiest ones. They are the ones that solve the practical brief, suit the architecture and still feel good after the novelty wears off.
Once the bones are right, Nero outdoor fittings or accessories in a finish that suits the architecture can add a final layer of cohesion without competing with the landscape.
Important Disclaimer: This guide is general information only. Costs are indicative, not quotes, and rules can change. For fences, drainage, paving falls, plumbing products and any project-specific approvals, confirm the exact requirements with your council, certifier, installer or other relevant professional before proceeding.
